Saturday, 7 October 2017

Beautiful Lifou - part of the Loyalty Islands of New Caledonia

One of my favourite stops on our South Pacific Cruise aboard P&O Pacific Dawn.


Santal Bay
Notre Dame de Lourdes perched on cliff top

Anchoring offshore in the picturesque Baie de Santal it's the striking cliff face with the little church Notre Dame de Lourdes, perched high on the cliff top that grabs your attention first. Then the sweeping vistas of Santal Bay hits you with a spectrum of blue sea from cobalt to azure, turquoise and crystal clear lapping above white sandy, palm lined beaches enticing you to come ashore and explore this tropical paradise.


Welcome to Lifou

Easo Beach

We are greeted onshore at Easo Beach by friendly islanders offering an array of local handmade crafts, delicacies and services including massage and hair braiding.  I have always wanted to get my hair braided so jumped at the opportunity and my hair style was taken care of for the rest of our holiday!


Braids

We did not pre-book any ship tours so were left to explore the island ourselves on foot. First stop a visit to the Notre Dame de Lourdes, built by Catholic missionaries who arrived on the island in 1858. Follow the road from the markets to the left, a short walk until you reach the pathway that leads you to the cliff top. You will be rewarded with spectacular views over the bay and a chance to admire the architecture of "the little church" as it's affectionately known. 


Notre Dame de Lourdes

Meandering back down the path to our left we spot the stunning, aquamarine waters of Jinek Bay Marine Reserve, one of the South Pacific's most pristine marine ecologies. Unfortunately this trip we can look, admire but not touch. To preserve this unique coral reef with more than 2000 fish species only 100 marine reserve passes are issued in the morning and then again in the afternoon. If you enjoy snorkeling, this is one opportunity you won't want to miss. You can purchase passes from P&O or onboard the ship, but be quick!


Jinek Bay

Following the road past Easo Beach we are delighted when we walk by a traditional hut on the roadside, for a gold coin donation we got to get up close and appreciate the fascinating handiwork of these handmade huts. The hut was surrounded by a lush tropical garden and one of the locals was hard at work in her vegetable garden.


Traditional hut

A few minutes further down the road we come across the Easo Catholic Church built in 1897, which can also be seen protruding out of the green forest and towering above the shoreline from the cruise ship. This unique structure with cylinder tower and built from concrete wouldn't look out of place in the Mediterranean.


Easo Catholic Church

A few steps past the church there were a group of locals cooking a BBQ, they asked us if we were there to see the cave? This was a total surprise, we knew there were caves, grotto's and secret gardens on the island but thought for sure we would only get to experience these on an organised tour. 

We paid the small fee and were pointed in the direction of a path that led to a breathtaking tropical rain forest with long vines, huge trees with tangled roots and the suns rays streaming through any gaps in the towering canopy. We followed the rope rail, walking down a steep decline into an underground cave complete with a deep swimming hole. Seizing the day and jumping off a rock into the chilly water would have to be one of the highlights of our adventures in Lifou.


Pathway to an underground cave

Underground swimming hole

We decided to head back to Easo Beach for the afternoon to relax, swim and snorkel before our departure. Although we did not book any ship tours and no taxis or public transport is available we were very satisfied with what we managed to see and experience in a day. There is much more to see and do on this diverse, scenic island but that will have to wait for another time.


Easo Beach

Australian dollars are accepted on Lifou, it is recommended to take smaller denominations or you can change your money aboard the ship.


Easo Beach - Pacific Dawn



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