Magical Mostar, Bosnia

The grand, 16^th century Stari Most stood tall and proud in the heart of Mostar for 427 years. This single span, stone arch bridge stretched 30m across the Neretva river, connecting both sides of Mostar city. Mostar got its name from the bridge keepers called “Mostari” who guarded the bridge. 

This national treasure and landmark was heartbreakingly destroyed on November 9, 1993 by tank shelling during the Bosnian war. A provisional bridge was put up for several years until post war efforts saw the bridge and old town lovingly restored to its former glory.

The quaint old town is full of character and charm and lies parallel to the river. Stone cobbled streets lead you down a pathway of dainty boutique shops and market stalls, brimming with bright, colourful trinkets and souvenirs to entice the tourist.

Before walking over the bridge a visit to the Museum of the Old Bridge is a must. The moving and thought provoking displays will take you on an emotional journey through the colourful history of the Stari Most.

A traditional bridge activity, dating back to 1664 and carried out by the brave, young men of Mostar consists of diving off Stari Most. At 24m high this is not an activity for the faint hearted! In 1968, the city held its first diving competition which still continues today. 

Be awestruck by the elite cliff divers who took part in the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series in August 2015, taking the plunge off the bridge and diving into the Neretva river. 

The Bosnian war left physical scars on Mostar, still visible today. Abandoned buildings littered with bullet holes are now used as a blank canvas for local street artists to express themselves with poignant messages. 

12km from Mostar and amazingly untouched by the Bosnian war you can visit the ancient, mystical Blagaj Tekke. This Dervish Monastery is a sight to behold, built at the base of an impressive 200m cliff and next to a cave which leads to an underground spring and feeds the Buna River.

The day I visited the Blagaj Tekke the Buna river was swollen and crystal clear mineral water was gushing from the spring. There was little clearance on the stone bridge leading across to a riverside restaurant. We made our way across thin, wooden planks to reach the restaurant as the alfresco dining area, including the table and chairs were under water. You can take in the best views of the Blagaj Tekke from the restaurant’s deck.

I only crossed the Croatian border into Bosnia for a day and was totally blown away by this fascinating city, the jewel of south east Europe.